The Complete Rolex Buyer’s Guide
If there is only one luxury watch brand that almost everyone knows, it’s Rolex. From Mad Men’s Don Draper’s Rolex Explorer to former President Barack Obama’s Rolex Cellini, Rolex can be found anywhere and everywhere. But, the availability of the brand doesn’t take away from the luxury of owning one. Learn more about collecting watches from the experts, or read more about it below.
Keep reading to learn more about Rolex
> Overview
> Innovations and Features
> Nicknames
> Terminology
> Price Range
> Why You Should Invest
> Rolex Buying Process
> Materials
> Movements
> Most Popular Collections
> Popular Rolex Models
> Relevant Rolex Reviews
> Selling and Trading Rolex Watches
> Learn More About Rolex
> Frequently Asked Questions about Rolex
Rolex: Overview
Originally founded in England, Rolex now resides in Geneva and is perhaps one of the most recognizable watchmakers in the world. It’s also one of the more obtainable luxury watch brands for the average person—and a symbol of clout in real life and in cinema as well.
There are few watch brands that have had the kind of impact on fashion and society that Rolex has. That’s evident when it comes to buying or selling one of these luxury watches. The pre-owned market for Rolex timepieces is robust, which is only compounded by the fact that the company’s models rarely receive dramatic re-styles, so an older Rolex is instantly recognizable as a version of its current-collection counterpart. The Rolex brand seems to reject obsolescence and if the luxury watch marketplace is any indication, collectors are fine with that.
Key Facts every collector should know about the Rolex brand:
> Founded in London, England by Hans Wilsdorf in 1905. The company was originally called Wilsdorf and Davis. The Rolex name came a few years later.
> Rolex was the first wristwatch to be given the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision.
> In 1919, the brand moved from London to Geneva, Switzerland.
> Every year, Rolex produces roughly 800,000 to 1,000,000 watches.
> There are four Rolex manufacturing facilities in total rather than just one. They are all in Switzerland.
> There is a lot of history behind Rolex; read it all on Rolex History: Everything You Need to Know About Rolex Watches.
Key Features and Innovations
In their over 100 years of operation, Rolex has become the most successful watchmaker of all time. The company is responsible for numerous innovations and has over 500 patents. Here are just a few ways they have changed watchmaking:
- Twin-Locking Winding Crown. This guarantees that their waterproof guarantee remains valid. For screw-down crowns, this prevents water from compromising the watch.
- Ring Command. A newer innovation, the ring command allows wearers to easily adjust the time and date in the watch.
The list of Rolex innovations and achievements is quite long. The watch brand has worked hard to establish itself as a high-quality luxury watch brand that isn’t just accessible to the very wealthy. Read more about Rolex’s innovations.
Rolex Nicknames
There’s one takeaway that any collector will have when it comes to Rolex watches. The nicknames are awesome. Whether it came from Rolex or from pop culture, many Rolex watches are better known for their nickname than the collection they belong to. Whether it’s the Rolex Pepsi, Root Beer, Coke (we’re sensing a theme), or the Clint Eastwood, there are numerous creative nicknames for Rolex watches. Here are a few more:
The Hulk: Submariner Date, ref. 116610LV-0002
Read more about the history of the Rolex Submariner “Hulk” history and why this is such an excellent collector’s item.The Hulk, as a character, is known for being larger than life and well, rather angry. Generally speaking, the submariner doesn’t inspire one to toss prankster gods around, but the large casing and bold colors certainly make the nickname “Hulk” a fitting one.
Submariner Date, ref. 116610LV
The Batman: GMT-Master II, ref. 116710BLNR
Read more about this watch, also called “The Dark Knight” here as well. We have Marvel, now it’s time for DC to shine. The GMT-Master II is an impressive watch and, when their 2013 watch was released, it earned a nickname: the Batman. The blue and black coloring and font style for the numbered bezel make it eye-catching for collectors and a fan favorite for those of us who are honorary Gothamites.
The Smurf: Submariner Date, ref. 116619LB
Like its older Submariner cousin, the “Smurf” has a distinct look with a bright blue dial and bezel, along with larger and louder features than some other luxury men’s watches. Another defining feature of this watch is that its debut launch in 2008 also introduced Rolex’s white gold, making it stand out not only for its coloring but also the material.
Submariner Date, ref. 116619LB
Rolex Terminology & Abbreviation
Like other watchmakers, Rolex has some terms and abbreviations that are unique to its brand. Knowing these terms is helpful in making an informed decision. It’s also good to know what you’re talking about when conversing about luxury watches.
- Sub: This is short for the ‘Submariner,’ one of their more popular collections designed for divers.
- Oyster, Jubilee, & President bracelets: These are specific bracelets that are unique to the Rolex brand and often seen with specific collections. Some may be in multiple collections as well.
- Hollow & Solid End Links: End links refer to the part that connects the bracelet to the watch while the hollow end link connects to the watch case.
- Cerachrome: The patented process by Rolex that produces very resilient, virtually scratch-proof ceramic bezels. The resulting material is called cerachrom.
- Cyclops: For watches that feature a complication, the cyclops is the part that magnifies the date on Rolex watches. While other brands may use it, the term originated with Rolex.
Price Range for Rolex Watches
The price that collectors will pay for a Rolex watch will depend on a few things, such as whether or not it is new or pre-owned and the collection. Typically, new Rolex watches range from as low as $6,000 to $75,000 USD, with some outliers priced at over $100,000 each. This number can be staggering for new collectors or those who are looking to invest without spending such a significant amount. Collectors who want to buy newer, yet less expensive Rolex watches can look towards the Datejust collection, while the GMT Master II is typically a more expensive watch.
Another option is the pre-owned market. Because Rolex watches tend to appreciate in value, it isn’t uncommon to see a pre-owned Rolex cost more than it did new. On The 1916 Company, pre-owned Rolex watches range from $3,500 to $100,000+ USD.
Investing in a Rolex
Most collectors invest in a Rolex simply because they love the brand — and for good reason. With a massive annual production scale, every Rolex watch is made of high-quality materials and designed to last. However, it’s still important to do your due diligence before deciding on a specific reference or style. Here are a few takeaways to consider when making an investment:
1. Consider Your Lifestyle
As a new collector, it can be difficult to know what you might be looking for. Think about your needs and what you would like out of your watch collection. For example, if this is a watch you plan to wear regularly, make sure you like the style. Consider the complications you’d like to have, how durable it needs to be—or doesn’t necessarily need to be—and make sure your luxury watch aligns with that.
2. Evaluate Your Budget
While certain luxury watch models may be tempting, it’s important to remember that an impulse purchase isn’t always a smart purchase. Some luxury timepieces carry a price tag equal to a home mortgage, so it is important to consider your budget. Purchasing a watch that will create a financial hardship is, unfortunately, a common mistake for new watch collectors. In addition to your budget, also consider the value of the watch you’d like to get, how it has appreciated over the years, and when it comes time to trade in the watch, consider its resale value.
3. Consult the Experts
Watch collectors, particularly those who are newer to collecting or horology in general, often benefit from the expertise and guidance that our experts can offer. We can advise on purchasing, financing options, and even appraising and selling watches you already own. Consult with the experts at The 1916 Company to help with choosing the right Rolex for your budget, purpose, and collecting goals.
What to Look for in a Rolex Watch
First, consider what you would like. Rolex has different styles and movements to choose from with various complications. As always, the overall quality of the watch you are considering adding to your collection should be a priority.
Once you’ve selected the movement and style you like, it’s important to remember why you are interested in a specific watch. Is this a family heirloom, or truly an investment that you may resell later? If this is an investment, consider collections that historically appreciate in value— like certain Submariner models.
Submariner aside, another series of models to consider is anything from the Milgauss collection. Originally designed for engineers, these watches have anti-magnetic properties that make them unique. Right now The 1916 Company’s prices are typically between $13,000 and $14,000 USD, but as Rolex relaunches the line, retail and secondary prices are anticipated to go up. Browse our selection of Milgauss watches, including the Milgauss, ref. 116400-0001.
Rolex Watch Buying Process
If you’re in the market for a new Rolex, you have two main options for purchase: online or in-person. Generally, the process is similar for each; consult with the seller on Rolex models available for purchase, confirm the watch’s condition, agree on a price and complete the sale. The process is slightly different with The 1916 Company.
Unlike some other online sellers, we have corporate facilities across the world with numerous The 1916 Company locations featuring our inventory. Additionally, one of our biggest differentiators from some other luxury watch companies is that we own our watches. As the seller, rather than the broker, we can better facilitate transactions and guarantee the quality of our timepieces.
We also have Client Advisors that can assist first-time purchasers. Our advisors help with numerous aspects of the buying journey, including
> Guiding purchasers with making an offer
> Assisting with counter-offers
> Setting up wire transfers
> Providing financing options
Our Client Advisors also perform one essential service that may make The 1916 Company a better option over some other sellers or brokers: We can source specific Rolex watch models that you may not find on our site.
Once a watch has been purchased, we ship the watch within two business days and, if accessories, the box, and the papers come with it, those as well. All of our shipments include insurance for the full value of the watch regardless of the purchase price. A signature is required for all of our purchasers as well, ensuring delivery.
Many of our watches also include a warranty and the option to purchase a care plan, allowing buyers to buy with peace of mind.
Our tips for purchasing a Rolex:
> Get references and contact them to establish the reputation of the selling agency.
> Shop with reputable sellers. For instance, The 1916 Company is well established with testimonials, and a quick search will reveal numerous 5 star reviews from collectors and sellers alike.
> Pay with a service, such as Paypal or a credit card, for first-time purchases with a buyer. This is so that you have recourse if a product is not as advertised or doesn’t arrive at all.
> Have a local watchmaker on hand. Immediately when receiving a new watch, have it inspected and appraised to ensure that you are getting what you paid for.
Rolex: Materials
Like some other watchmakers, Rolex has a patented approach to their materials. The brand blends its own metals, featuring unique materials like Everose Gold, the Cerachrom we referenced above, and even Chromalight for low-light areas. Rolex’s foray into blending alloys is well documented and better described in our article, Proprietary Rolex Materials: What Do They All Mean.
Rolex: Movements
There are generally three types of watch movements: Quartz, Automatic, and Manual Wind. Most Rolex watches today feature an automatic movement. Those interested in owning a manual or quartz movement may have to wait. At any given time, The 1916 Company does feature Rolex watches that deviate from the standard automatic movement— like the Cellini, ref. 5115/8 SLT ROM TB— but given that most Rolex have an automatic movement, it isn’t common.
Rolex: Most Popular Collections
While some Rolex watches have fallen out of favor over the years, other collections are going as strong as ever and don’t show signs of slowing down. Read about Rolex’s most desired watches and browse The 1916 Company’s three most popular Rolex collections.
The Submariner Collection
With watches called “The Hulk” as part of the collection, it’s no surprise that Rolex’s Submariner collection is wildly popular with collectors. There are virtually endless design possibilities with the line (such as the Kermit) and as these watches become more and more popular, they only seem to go up in value. Production Run: 1953 – Present.
Key Features:
> Available in numerous colors and design choices
> Certain models feature a rotating bezel and a Cerachrom insert
> The watch line was designed for divers and loved by the general public
Price: The average price is around $29,700 USD
Shop The Submariner Collection Today
The Daytona Collection
Inspired by Florida’s infamous Daytona Beach and racing, the Daytona was launched in 1963 to honor the sport that dubbed Rolex their official timepiece. Since then it has become a popular line with watch wearers outside of the sport due to its bold design and numerous choices. Though a luxury watch, the Daytona is undoubtedly a tool watch. Compare the Daytona and Submariner— two of Rolex’s most popular models. Production Run: 1963 – Present.
Key Features:
> Rolex’s only chronograph collection
> Designed for motorsports specifically
> Some collectors wait 2+ years to buy new
Price: The average price is around $45,000 USD
Shop The Daytona Collection Today
The Datejust Collection
The Rolex Datejust has a timeless design that many collectors really enjoy. It is a blend of both modern and traditional styles which, despite the unpredictable nature of fashion, has remained a popular choice with collectors. In addition to that, Datejust models tend to be versatile. Either as a casual watch or for formal wear, the Datejust is a great choice for collectors who want to wear their watches rather than just keep them on display. Production Run: 1945 – Present.
Key Features:
> The Datejust has a variety of case sizes
> Rolex’s first automatic to include the date
> The very first Datejust was solid gold
Price: The average price is around $15,920 USD
Shop The Datejust Collection Today
Popular Rolex Models:
Looking for more specific Rolex watch guides? Check out our expert reviews and guides on some of the brand’s most infamous and compelling models.
> Rolex Oysterquartz Ref. 17013: Electronic Control With Soul
> Rolex GMT-Master II 116719BLRO: Rolex Pepsi Flies Again
> Rolex Daytona 116519 MT White Gold & Meteorite Dial: Out of This World
> Rolex 16710 GMT-Master II Tiffany & Co: Time Capsule Timepiece
Other Relevant Rolex Reviews
Check out a few of Tim Mosso’s in-depth, honest reviews of Rolex watches including the Submariner, Daytona, Datejust, GMT-Master II and many more. He’ll give you all of the details you need to make a decision, showcasing each watch from lug-to-lug.
> Rolex GMT-Master “Pepsi” 16700
> Rolex Day-Date “Rainbow” 128238
> Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116519
> Rolex Cellini Dual Time 50525
Selling and Trading Rolex Watches
Already have a Rolex watch that you’re thinking about selling or trading? You’ll likely receive a better value for a trade-in if you’re looking to sell your watch first — plus, selling your Rolex with The 1916 Company is simple. First, fill out our quick online form with the relevant information and we’ll share a quote within 24 hours. Next, you’ll receive a prepaid shipping label, including insurance, to send us your watch. Once we receive your watch, our qualified experts will inspect it for condition and authenticity. Finally, after inspection is complete, receive payment via check or wire payment. Learn more about the process and the value of a Rolex trade-in when you connect with a The 1916 Company Client Advisor.
Learn More About Rolex
> 8 Things to Know About Rolex
> Rolex Dive Watches: Robust Tool Watches
> The Ultimate Rolex Collection: 13 Must-Have Models
> Everything You Need To Know About Iced Out Rolex Watches
> Collecting Modern Rolex: Part 1
Frequently Asked Questions about Rolex:
Why are Rolex watches special?
Aside from the prestige of owning a luxury watch, Rolex watches are special because of their high-quality materials and development. These watches look good for years, they can be very difficult to damage, and almost all appreciate in value over time.
Are Rolex watches worth it?
Quartz movements in particular don’t hold up well next to models with manual and automatic movements. With that in mind and given that most Rolex watches feature automatic movements, they are typically worth the investment. How much of an investment a Rolex is depends on the model and market demand.
What is the least expensive Rolex?
The least expensive, entry model Rolex watch tends to be the Datejust, though prices on those have been impacted by the cost of steel. The Oyster Perpetual is also a more affordable new luxury watch. Brand new, both tend to start around $5,000 USD. Right now on The 1916 Company, the least expensive of these two collections is the ladies Oyster Perpetual, ref. 76080 priced at $3,450
How much does the average Rolex cost?
With such a massive collection of watch models, it’s very difficult to summarize this into one single number. Overall, the cost of a Rolex ranges from about $6,000 to well over $100,000 USD. For more complicated models, such as the Sky-Dweller, prices will start at around $15,000.
Should you buy a Rolex online?
You certainly can. The 1916 Company is online, after all, and our products are carefully examined and vetted to ensure authenticity and quality. But, be wary of online auction sites. While a good place for some products, watches can easily be misrepresented.