A History of Rolex Innovations
Rolex has always been at the forefront of watch innovations and inventions since the brand was founded in 1905. Their watchmakers are dedicated to perfection and developing new innovations to life, pushing new designs and updates to classic models.
What Has Rolex Innovated?
Like other large manufacturers, such as Patek Philippe [crosslink to history article], Rolex has always had a focus on watchmaking development. The brand has multiple laboratories housing classic watchmaking techniques, and for research and development.
Rolex also grew its research and development department to employ traditional watchmakers and engineers alongside mechanical engineers, physicists, micro-technologists, and other people with technological backgrounds to all work together to develop new materials and technologies. With over 500 patents and a full research and development department, here are some of Rolex’s top watch innovations that it introduced to the industry:
- Parachrom Hairspring
- Paraflex Shock Absorber
- Twin-Lock Winding Crown
Parachrom Hairspring
A hairspring is part of the oscillator within the movement of every mechanical watch and paired with the balance wheel. This ensures timekeeping precision thanks to the oscillations it makes. Introduced in 2000 as a patented hairspring, the Rolex Parachrom Hairspring is composed of niobium, zirconium, and oxygen. It is completely made in-house and measures a half centimeter in diameter.
By using the Parachrom alloy, the anti-magnetic qualities of the watch can increase, shock resistance increases and there is greater stability during temperature fluctuations. This Parachrom Hairspring was updated in 2005 to modify the surface adding reinforcements to stability and giving the spring the blue color it is known for. The Parachrom hairspring can be found in larger diameter watches.
Paraflex Shock Absorber
Another component of mechanical movements that Rolex has developed and patented is the Paraflex Shock Absorber. Rolex has been using a shock absorber in its timepieces since the 1930s. This updated shock absorber was introduced in 2005 and protects the balance wheel and escapement from shocks. The design of the Paraflex Shock Absorber is symmetrical, allowing for an easier install and reassembly during maintenance. Shock resistance is increased by 50% compared to previous iterations.
Twin-Lock Winding Crown
Rolex has always boasted their waterproofness since the launch of the Oyster in 1926, but the Twin-Lock winding crown wasn’t patented and introduced until 1953. This guarantees that the screw-down crown is water-resistant by providing two gaskets or seals. The first seal is inside the tube for the stem of the crown while the other is located inside the crown. The Submariner was the first model to use this when it launched, also in 1953.
To identify models that use the Twin-Lock system, you will see two dots below the Rolex emblem on gold models, steel models use a bar to identify.
Cerachrom Bezel Inserts
A more recent innovation from Rolex is the Cerachrom bezel that was introduced in 2005. Previously bezels would typically be made from aluminum, which was known to fade. This Cerachrom material is a hard and corrosion-resistant ceramic. This also means that it is rare for the material to scratch and the color doesn’t fade. This ceramic bezel was originally just black until Rolex developed a way to dual-color providing the GMT-Master II Batman and Pepsi models an updated insert. Today, all bezel inserts in the Professional collection feature a Cerachrom bezel, whether it is black, blue, green, or two-toned.
Syloxi Hairspring
The Syloxi hairspring is designed using silicon and was introduced in 2014. This small component took years to develop and features many patents. By using silicon, there is a high level of precision and reliability. It is also impervious to magnetic interference. Syloxi is a combination of silicon and a silicon oxide composite that features a thermo-compensating property for an increase in temperature variations.
The Syloxi hairspring was introduced in the Calibre 2236 and joins the high-performance Parachrom hairspring. Typically, the Syloxi hairspring is found in small to medium diameter watches.
Chronergy Escapement
Another crucial part of a mechanical watch movement is the escapement which provides the ‘ticking’ of the watch. The escapement sits between the gear train and the oscillator which transmits the division of time. The new chronergy escapement improved the efficiency of the escapement by 15% when compared to the traditional Swiss lever escapement.
The Rolex workshops in Bienne worked meticulously to develop the precise interaction needed, which led to a redesign of the pallet fork and escape wheel. The new components were also created of a nickel-phosphorus alloy that makes them anti-magnetic. The Chronergy escapement was introduced in 2015 in the caliber 3235 and 3255, the caliber 3285 in 2018 also uses the new-generation escapement.
Easylink
The Easylink system was designed to improve the wearability for Rolex watch owners. This is built into most Oyster bracelets across models and allows for the wearer to increase or decrease the size of the bracelet by 5mm. Rolex understood that the wrist may swell or shrink depending on conditions and wanted to ensure that the watch would still be comfortable in these situations. No tools are needed to make this adjustment, the wearer just needs to open the bracelet and adjust the link under the clasp.
Glidelock
Similar to the Easylink system, Rolex introduced the Glidelock clasp on the Submariner up to an additional 20mm while the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea offer an additional 26mm extension. The Glidelock allows for 2mm adjustments at a time without the use of tools. On these models, you’ll notice that the clasp is slightly longer to allow for adjustments. To adjust, you would open the clasp, pull on the bracelet to release it from the notch, and reposition in the desired extension, locking down to secure.
Helium Escape Valve
In the 1960s with the increased diving interest, Rolex partnered with Doxa to create the Helium Escape Valve. This can now be found on many brands across dive watches, but Rolex was the first to use it in the Submariner and Sea-Dweller, while Doxa released the Conquistador. This uni-directional valve automatically relieves built-up pressure in the watch case without compromising waterproofness during the decompression procedure.
Chromalite
In 2008, Rolex developed the Chromalight luminous material for increased legibility. Watch brands have used radium, tritium, and SuperLuminova in the past, but Rolex’s Chromalight was developed to last up to eight hours in low or no light, almost doubling the power of other materials. You will know that the watch uses Chromalight when in a dark room as you will see the watch glow slightly blue rather than green as seen on older watches.
Ring Command
The Rolex Ring Command was introduced in 2014 alongside the Sky-Dweller release. Rather than adjusting the time or date through the crown, you simply turn the bezel to select the function. To adjust, you turn the bezel counterclockwise by one, two or three positions and then turn the crown to set, rather than pulling the crown out to different positions. The first position adjusts the date and month, the second local time and the third adjusts the reference time.
While Rolex wasn’t the first brand to introduce waterproof watches, they patented the screw-down crown and case back. Rolex also introduced the perpetual rotor and automatic day-date functions. Discover more about these inventions in our history guide to Rolex and learn about the proprietary materials developed by Rolex.
Images via Rolex.com.
How Innovations Impacted Rolex Models
GMT-Master
The Pan AM airline requested that Rolex develop a watch that would be able to showcase dual time zones in a single watch for their pilots. Rolex went on to create the 24-hour hand using a bezel with a 24-hour format that would eventually rotate. The GMT-Master was released in 1954 and would go on to evolve into the GMT-Master II collection which now allows pilots and collectors to track up to three time zones at one time using the bezel, 24-hour hand, and local hour hand.
Sky-Dweller
The Sky-Dweller is referred to as the most complex Rolex that has been released. In addition to utilizing the Ring Command system, the annual calendar is also unique. Rolex named this annual calendar Saros which is a Greek term referring to the approximately 18-year cycle of alignment between the Sun, Earth, and Moon. The Saros annual calendar also automatically differentiates between 30 and 31-day months, needing just one adjustment in February for leap years. The months of this calendar are 12 apertures around the dial starting with January in the 1 o’clock position. The current month will show a red block while the others will be white.
The Sky-Dweller also now utilizes the Oysterflex bracelet which was first used on the Yacht-Master then Daytona. It combines a vulcanized rubber strap with an internal core of a flexible titanium-nickel to give shape and structure.
Yacht-Master II
The Yacht-Master II was released in 2010 and was the first watch to feature a programmable countdown and mechanical memory. The watch was designed for regattas where the starting sequence can last up to ten minutes. The 4161 movements took four years to create. It allows the wearer to program the countdown before the official countdown begins, and start once begun. There is a locking feature activated by twisting the bezel 90-degrees.
Rolex is often seen as one of the leading brands across the watch world and by those who do not know much about watches. It is easy to see why as they are constantly innovating new technologies and updating releases.
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