How to Build Your Watch Collection: Advice From a Pro

When someone starts a watch collection, it doesn’t just begin by mere happenstance. There is tireless effort, thought, and strategy that goes into an enthusiast’s buying, trading, and selling practices—there’s different schools of thought, different collecting philosophies, and various tastes and preferences. But, where does one begin this steep journey?

Consider Your Budget

Before we dive into collecting philosophies and how to develop your taste, it’s important to understand what money can buy. If you’ve never purchased a luxury watch before, or you’re just looking to dust off your collection and begin exploring again, consider your budget. Even for expert collectors like Mark Cho from The Armoury, this is a key element. “For me, it was price…It’s only in the last couple of years of my life that I bought new watches,” says Cho about starting his own collection.

Additionally, the most important step you can take when curating your own selection is to establish a budget. For example, if you know you’re only willing to spend $1,000, you may have to limit expectations a bit and realize that a Swiss luxury watch may be out of the question. However, if you’re upping the ante to $10,000, your possibilities open up a bit, to say, a new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41, an updated Omega Speedmaster, or a steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon piece. If you’re able to increase your budget beyond that, your ability to be more particular and intentional increases as well—this is where you’ll be able to consider specific, rare, and vintage pieces that are challenging to come by.

Explore Collecting Philosophies

In The 1916 Company’s collector conversation with Mark Cho, Tim Mosso poses the question—what starts people down the path of collecting luxury timepieces? The answer usually boils down to two schools of thought. Take a look at them to see which one you best identify with.

#1: The Milestone Man

This collector opts for the big name models like the Speedy Pro, Submariner, and Reverso 1931. In essence, their goal is to collect the “trademark” watch from each brand. According to Cho, this person is probably more impulsive and emotional.

#2: The Personal Pursuer

Unlike the collector who is attracted to recognizable model names, this person prefers to make their collection deeply personal. They want to buy timepieces that represent specific times in their life, who they are, and what they like. Cho considers himself one of these collectors, saying “I feel the same way about these watches as I do about my clothing. I have a philosophy for clothing which is that your clothing should represent you, they should never transform you.”

Develop Your Taste

Many enthusiasts work toward building a collection that has a distinct, individualistic look. It’s important to fit your watches to your unique style, taste, and preferences so that you can enjoy it for years to come. According to Cho, the best thing you can do to find your niche and hone your taste would be to expose yourself to as many different brands, complications, and models as possible. “I’ve found that over time as I managed to see and handle more watches, my eyes improved,” says Cho.

He also suggests owning something for a while to get a sense for the piece, and to see if it fits your collection and lifestyle. Simply reading a review or looking at it in a shop is not enough—you have to handle it and live with it to see how it suits you. Most collectors acquire watches emotionally, so you have to fall out of love with something to shape your taste. As a rule of thumb, when you purge your collection, the passion that remains is what shapes your taste.

And of course, not every aspect of developing your “eye” can be broken down into textbook step-by-step instructions. After all, aesthetics are important, but they’re subjective. For example, some collectors like Cho prefer thinner, smaller watches, while others opt for more robust pieces. Additionally, some love vintage while others lean toward the latest and greatest. However, regardless of if you have something in your collection or not, you can always look forward to the “joy of discovery.” It’s the hook that pulls us into a watch, and the best way you can engage in this exciting discovery is to admire other collectors’ or dealers’ tastes. If you couldn’t imagine owning a particular watch, you can at least engage in conversation about it and see what drew someone in—it’s always compelling to see what they say. “I’m always interested in people’s taste, especially if I think their taste is better than mine,” says Cho.

Engage in Responsible Bidding

On a final note, it’s worth noting that you should always bid, trade, and sell responsibly. There’s no clear and fast rules here, but Cho recommends not taking yourself too seriously.

“I never bid that seriously. If I can get below the estimate, I will. Otherwise, I’ll go low with an estimate. If I don’t get it, it’s not the end of the world,” he says. Where’s the fun in being so hard on yourself?

Lastly, be sure to do business with dealers that you like and trust. Cho particularly likes buying from transparent dealers who give good advice, offer warranties, and extend a helping hand if something goes wrong after purchase.

With an overwhelming worldwide value of about $6.93B USD according to Statista, the luxury watch market is a behemoth and likely startling for newcomers. If you’re interested in more tips and tricks of the trade, read The 1916 Company’s article called “Starting a Luxury Watch Collection: Part 1…Where to Begin?” Or, gather first hand accounts from seasoned collectors who shared their expertise with The New York Times. As more people spend time at home, there’s never been a better time to launch your collection, or enhance what you have. Since the pandemic has given the watch market its moment, we’re simply here to offer a guiding hand—just be sure to return the favor after you’ve gained tenure.