F.P. Journe Review: A Brand Worth Examining
F.P. Journe is a modern-day watchmaker that many collectors rank alongside brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. F. P. Journe stands for the watchmaker himself, François-Paul Journe. In this article you’ll discover:
> Where to Buy an F.P. Journe Watch
A Brief History of F.P. Journe
The brand F.P. Journe was founded in 1999, but Journe had begun his watchmaking quest long before starting his own luxury watch manufacturer. François-Paul was born in Marseille, France in 1957 and his watchmaking career also began in France.
In fact, Journe went to technical college at the age of 14 and subsequently graduated from the Paris watchmaking school in 1976. Just two years later, Journe would begin working on his first tourbillon pocket watch. The design was inspired by a George Daniels pocket watch that Journe saw on a client when working at his uncle’s watchmaking studio. Journe would go on to be mentored by the legendary George Daniels, who invented the Co-Axial Escapement.
When Journe was 22, he was commissioned by the Parisian ateliers P-G Brun to design a planetarium mechanism for Asprey in London. Seven years after starting his pocket watch, Journe finished the tourbillon in 1983. He built his own tourbillon chronometer in his free time when not working for his uncle. In addition to making his own movement, François-Paul created every other component, including the gold and silver case.
Starting a Workshop and Developing a Brand
In 1985, Journe started a workshop where he would create bespoke watches for collectors. A year later F.P. Journe’s first automatic chronometer pocket watch was finished. It housed a fusée chain and a five-second remontoire as well as a retrograde perpetual calendar and equation of time. Another pocket watch was finished in 1987, this time a planetary pocket watch that was commissioned by a collector.
Over the years Journe would achieve many awards, including the prize by the Fondation Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet pour la Vocation, the Balancier d’Or Prize at the Watchmakers Convention in Madrid, the Gaia Award of the Best Watchmaker from the Institut l’Homme et le Temps, and the Prix Spécial du Jury.
In 1989, F.P. Journe started a movement manufacturer in Switzerland, where they would eventually settle in Geneva. In 1991, he would make his first wristwatch and created the entire movement out of 18k gold. Just a few years later in 1996, he would create TIM SA, a manufacturer dedicated to developing exclusive calibers.
The Launch
In 1999, the Tourbillon Souverain was launched alongside the newly formed Montres Journe SA. The watch was signed with F.P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit. This means ‘invented and made’ which refers to the watch being an original conception and created by only the best craftsmen.
In 2000, the manufacturer grew from one employee to 50, where they are able to produce 3-4 watches per day. In 2001, F.P. Journe developed the Octa calibre, which was his first mechanical movement that was self-winding. He would also go on to work for Harry Winson in 2001, where he worked on the Opus One collection.
Journe opened his first boutique in Tokyo, Japan, in 2003 within the middle of the Omotesando district, home to many museums. A Hong Kong boutique would open in 2006, followed by the first European boutique in 2007 in Geneva. Since then, he has continued to open more boutiques around the world including the United States. He also continued to win numerous watchmaking awards from around the while developing and launching new watches.
In 2018, Chanel acquired a minority stake in F.P. Journe, owning approximately 20% of the brand. Up-and-coming independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi also worked for F.P. Journe for a number of years before he was inspired to break out into his own independent brand, Akrivia. Learn more about Rexhepi in an exclusive interview with Tim Mosso.
12 Notable F.P. Journe Watches
Since the brand launched in 1999, F.P. Journe has continued to create new models over the years, designing and improving upon past technologies. Some of the most notable models include:
1. Tourbillon Souverain
The Tourbillon Souverain was the first model released under the F.P. Journe watch brand in 1999, modeled from the first wristwatch he created 8 years earlier. The collection debuted at Baselworld in 1999 and was a 38mm wide case with a 42 hour power reserve. This original version was produced until 2003 when it was released with the TN references.
The newer models are either 38mm or 40mm and feature an updated design and reengineering of the case. There have also been some special releases of the TN reference with engraved dials or even a Ferrari Red color.
In 2008, the Tourbillon Titanium was released as reference TT and featured an entire watch made from titanium. This included the movement and tourbillon cage. The titanium pieces were limited to just 20 pieces.
2. Chronomètre à Résonance
The Chronomètre à Résonance was launched in 2000 and officially released in 2001, and celebrated 20 years with an updated design. In 1983, François-Paul conducted research on the resonance movement. The watch uses natural resonance, also known as a double pendulum, where the balances work harmoniously together and then beat in opposition. Due to the harmonic motion, the frequency between the two does not exceed 5 seconds per day, making the model very accurate.
Following the original release include a platinum case with ruthenium dial and gold movement, an 18k rose gold model with digital 24-hour dial and a model with 12 and 24-hour dials. The 20th anniversary of the watch brought about a slight upgrade to the model. The dial stayed in the same configuration, but they were updated throughout the rest of the design. This included a change in the crown positions, an openwork mechanism at the center of the dial, and changing to a single mainspring barrel, lowering the power-reserve period.
Continue reading about the Different Generations of the Resonance.
3. Sonnerie Souveraine
Launched in 2006, the Sonnerie Souveraine was an homage to the new millennium, the design of the watch began in 2000. It features an open worked dial which showcases part of the chiming mechanism. When the watch is placed in silent mode, it can hold a power reserve of 5 days. The movement required a new construction and holds 10 patents.
The model was discontinued in 2019 and it is estimated that just over 50 pieces were made. Instead of showing a case number, the owner’s name is engraved.
4. Répétition Souveraine
Following the Sonnerie Souveraine was the launch of the Répétition Souverain in 2008. This minute repeater is an ultra-thin and lightweight watch. The movement itself is barely 4.5mm thick housed in a steel case. F.P. Journe typically makes his watches out of precious metals, but opted to use stainless steel for this. His aim was to create the best striking tone, which is achievable by the use of steel.
5. Centigraphe Souverain
The Centigraphe also launched in 2008 and was the first wristwatch to record 1/100th of a second of elapsed time. There are three dials to record time, one for 1-second, 20-seconds and 10-minutes, while the center-seconds hand records the 1/100th scale. The centigraph was also utilized in the lineSport collection where it was produced in titanium from 2014 to 2018 while an aluminum model was produced between 2011 and 2014.
Learn more about the Centigraph CT2RG or watch our hands on review of the Centigraphe Sport Titanium model. .
6. Chronomètre Bleu
The Chronomètre Bleu was launched in 2008 in a tantalum case. This metal is a dark gray color with slightly blue overtones. It is extremely hard and very difficult to work with so many watch manufacturers do not use the material. Paired with the dark case is a blue chrome dial that changes in tones depending on the lighting environment. The model is one of the most sought after by collectors because it is extremely versatile.
The unique coloring of the model allows it to be worn dressed up or more casually, but the wearer knows that the watch is extremely durable compared to traditional gold materials in dress watches.
Continue reading about the Chronometre Blue.
7. Vagabondage I – III
The Vagabondage collection spans three generations, with the first being released in 2004 and all featuring a ‘tortue’ or tonneau shaped case. The first generation Vagabondage I only saw a total of 69 pieces made in platinum with central jump hours feature.
The Vagabondage II series was produced from 2010 to 2018 and also featured jumping hours paired with jumping minutes. There were 69 pieces released in platinum while 68 pieces were made in 18k gold.
Most recently, the Vagabondage III launched in 2017, also in a limited edition of 68 pieces in rose gold and 69 pieces in platinum. The window at 10 o’clock is the hour indication, the windows at 6 o’clock are the seconds and there is a central minutes hand and complementing blued power reserve function.
The Vagabondage name for the model refers to the wandering original digital display.
8. Octa Calendrier
F.P. Journe released the Brass Octa Calenderier from 2003 to 2005 while the caliber 1300.3 gold movement was available from 2004 to 2015. This was the first annual calendar wristwatch to have a large date and power reserve over 120 hours. The dial is off centered with a retrograd date along the outdoor left edge. It is thought that the dial is aligned on the right side so wearers would be able to check the time under a cuff without being overtly obvious.
Continue reading about the Octa Calendrier.
9. Octa Quantième Perpétuel
The Octa Quantième Perpétuel was launched in 2013 and is now available in either 28mm or 40mm and in platinum or 18k rose gold. The model features the day, date, and month automatically taking into account the leap year cycle adjusting with an instantaneous jump. The crown makes all adjustments except for the month, which is adjusted using a hidden lever beneath the 1 o’clock lug.
While the dial color is traditionally a rose gold or silvered gray, some limited editions have been released such as the Jade Quantieme Perpetual.
10. elégante
F.P. Journe launched his first ladies collection in 2014 as the élégante. It featured a flat 40mm ‘Tortue’ case with luminescent dial. Powering this ladies piece is an electro-mechanical movement. This movement is a ‘smart-quartz’ design and the battery lasts for 8 to 10 years of wear, or 18 years if it stays in the standby mode. The movement took 8 years to develop and if it sits motionless for 35 minutes, it will switch into standby mode while showing the exact time as the watch is worn again.
The watch was eventually released in a 48mm case size for men. The model typically has a rubber strap with titanium case while the women’s model occasionally has a diamond bezel or pave case. There is also much more color in the model, the rubber straps come in a variety of colors.
11. Octa Lune
The Octa Lune was in production between 2004 and 2015 and features a moonphase, power reserve and date offsetting the right aligned dial. The moonphase is 18k gold, which stands out against a dark blue background.
Later the Octa Automatique Lune would be released with the caliber 1300.3 from 2007 to 2018 where it featured a 38 or 40mm case with central hours and minutes. More recently, this dial variation of the Automatique Lune was updated to have a 5-day power reserve, larger date aperture and off-centered rotor for optimal winding.
This has also been released as a piece unique to Octa Lune with a Havana dial in a rose gold case, which you can learn more about in our hands-on review.
12. Chronographe Rattrapante
The lineSport collection expanded again in 2018 with the addition of the Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum, gold or titanium. The monopoussoir split-second chronograph features a large date and symmetrical, balanced, dial. The lineSport collection is sporty, so there are rubber inserts on the case and bracelet to help protect the watch. There is a power reserve of 80-hours.
You can learn more about the lineSport and the Chronographe Rattrapante in our Deep Dive Into the Casual Side of F.P. Journe.
Why Buy F.P. Journe Watches; A Unique Piece
The F.P. Journe manufacturer only produces around 900 watches per year, so there are very few available for sale across the many different models that are made. F.P. Journe watches have a very distinct design when compared against other brands; Journe created his own unique style when designing a new model.
Materials
Many F.P. Journe watches use gold in their designs including in the movement, dial and cases. In fact, many of the cases are made of precious materials, either being gold or platinum. In more recent years, the brand has started using titanium and aluminum for case materials as well as very rarely using stainless steel.
Design
Journe designs all of his watches and this is what makes the watches so unique. He carefully lays out the dial to create a cohesive look which sometimes may not be a traditional layout. He also has some distinctive characteristics across models. This includes a large date, developing hand-stitched straps in a variety of colors, a two-part case with a serial number on the back, a knurled crown design and blue steeled hands.
Buying an F.P. Journe
F.P. Journe has gone to a boutique-only retail system in the United States, and due to its low production numbers across about 50 unique models, new pieces are extremely limited. On the pre-owned market, and through a global retailer like The 1916 Company, you now have access to a wide range of limited edition models released in different watch markets around the world and access to discontinued models. F.P. Journe offers extreme precision paired with intriguing design and innovations. Shop the entire collection of F.P. Journe watches at The 1916 Company, including limited editions and unique models.