In Focus: De Bethune DB28 Digitale

Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker and creative force behind De Bethune, takes an avant-garde approach to horology. His vision honors the traditions of 18th century watchmaking while exploring innovations in technique, aesthetics, and contemporary materials. And this reimagining of classical watchmaking has been rewarded; Denis has developed 28 calibers, received eight patents, two national prizes, and 17 international prizes.

The DB28 Digitale is the truest expression of this innovative spirit. The 45mm polished grade 5 titanium case looks like a precious metal…until you pick up the ultra-light case. Its crown is positioned at 12 o’clock, an homage to early pocket watches. Denis made sure the moonphase could be set by the crown, thus eliminating the need for pushers along the case. The resulting profile is streamlined with a clean look all the way around. The signature De Bethune articulated lugs give the watch a futuristic feel, and their subtle movement allows the watch to comfortably hug the wrist.

The jump hour, rotating minutes disk, and spherical moonphase are powered by caliber DB2144, which features De Bethune’s twin-barrel self-regulating system to provide a five-day power reserve. The blued triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system keeps the DB28 Digitale ticking in the most rigorous of conditions. Combined with De Bethune’s patented spherical moonphase in the middle of the dial, the patented silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring, and the patented balance spring with a flat terminal curve, this watch unequivocally honors the innovative spirit of watchmaking.

The jump hour is an incredibly fun complication on any watch. It is especially enjoyable on the DB28 Digitale, with the digital hour positioned between blued titanium depictions of the sky set outside the minutes track and encircling the moonphase. These hand-blued titanium tracks feature white gold “stars” that are hand-placed and hand-polished. On the wandering minutes track, they are reminiscent of a time-lapse of the night sky. Set against the white barleycorn motif guilloche dial, these features jump off the dial and make the watch easily legible in all light. You could completely forget to look at the time and just get lost in the amazing handwork of the dial.

With all these innovative and uniquely elegant features, it’s easy to get caught up in the specifications of the watch. But the DB28 Digitale does what every watch should do: tell the time in an interesting and easy-to-read format. It is technically innovative, honors traditional watchmaking, and is a joy to have on the wrist and to behold. It is, simply, a fantastic watch for daily wear.

The Specs

Model: De Bethune DB28 Digitale

Reference Number: DB28DN

Case Size + Material: 45mm case in polished grade 5 titanium

Caseback: Exhibition caseback

Movement: Caliber DB2114; manual winding mechanical movement

Functions: Jumping hours, wandering minutes, spherical moonphase

Strap/Bracelet: Double-sided alligator strap