The Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms Scuba: Diving Into the Rising Tide of its Stormy Journey
The Ocean of Storms is set to rescue the much hyped collaboration.
Have you ever tasted food that is neither bad nor good? You put it in your mouth and it doesn’t disgust or excite you, and despite its ambiguity you keep on chewing, hoping the next bite will be the burst of flavor that makes you say, “this is one of the best things I have ever tasted.” And regardless of your desire for that meal to be better it just never gets there. Then you come back the following week, try the same thing, hoping maybe, just maybe, this time it will blow you away, only to be left unfulfilled.
That is the best analogy I can make regarding the Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms collaboration. They checked enough boxes to excite me, but not enough to sing their praises. I am not entirely sure what it is about this collaboration, but no matter how much I want to love this watch, it constantly leaves me wanting more.
However, Blancpain may have just come out with a new version that appears to be the meal I have been waiting for. Last week Blancpain and Swatch released the sixth watch of their collaboration with the “Ocean of Storms”. And the knee-jerk reactions across the talking heads of the internet started pouring in.
So what is different about “The Ocean of Storms?”
First, you may be wondering where they found a sixth ocean on which to base this new model. Drawing inspiration from the Oceanus Procellarum, a massive lunar mare that blankets over 10% of our nearby Moon’s surface, this unique timepiece showcases a distinctive design. The case, reminiscent of others in its collection, is crafted from black bioceramic, boasting dimensions of 42.3mm in diameter and a height reaching 14.4mm.
Maintaining its Fifty Fathoms designation, this watch ensures water resistance up to 91 meters or fifty fathoms. The black unidirectional rotating bezel features a glossy insert with a 60-minute graduation. The dial is covered by a bio-sourced crystal and the caseback is made of sapphire enhancing the watch’s durability and visual appeal. The mechanical Sistem 51 movement within adds a captivating charm to the Scuba, operating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour and providing an impressive 90-hour power reserve.
Adding a unique touch to the rotor, a nudibranch, a shell-less gastropod, is elegantly depicted. The chosen motif is the Okenia Luna nudibranch, aligning with the brand’s inspiration from Oceanus Procellarum. This lunar plain, formed by ancient volcanic eruptions, stretches approximately 2,500 km on the Moon’s near side. Referred to as a lunar mare, meaning “lunar sea” in Italian, these plains were initially mistaken for bodies of water by early astronomers. (On a side note made by the inmitable Jack Forster — Giovanni Battista was the 17th century Jesuit astronomer responsible for naming the lunar seas).
With its sunburst dial and black bezel insert this version aligns much more to the design ethos of the actual Fifty Fathoms. Moving away from the previous versions, this new release also features 12, 3, 6, 9 indices. Between the monochromatic design, the Arabic numerals, and sunburst dial, this version feels like the one we have all been waiting for. The one to satisfy the unquenchable thirst for an entry level Blancpain that is different, yet honors the provenance and history of the famed Fifty Fathoms model.
Unlike the Mission to Moonshine Gold versions of the MoonSwatch, this release will join the original five watches produced in 2023 as part of their regular production line. But will this new release save the line from its disappointing start?
Upon first reactions, it seems as though this may be the watch to save the line. With the likes of Swizz Beats, a known collector and De Bethune enthusiast already spotted wearing the new version, it is clear this watch is already catching on.
I want to take a moment and state that I have a deep appreciation for Blancpain. In my opinion, this watch brand is vastly underrated, undervalued, and underappreciated. So, I must admit that this article is not entirely without bias. However, until I see this new model in the flesh I have to admit I still have trepidation surrounding this release.
Looking back to the success and failure of Swatch collaborations.
In the modern horological landscape it feels as though almost every week a new watch becomes an internet sensation. Some of these releases achieve iconic status, while others quickly fade into obscurity. Yet, beyond the Tiffany Blue 5711 and the Paul Newman Daytona, no other watch has captured as much attention in recent years as the MoonSwatch. When the MoonSwatch was released, it created a frenzy not only within the watch community but also among those who aren’t watch enthusiasts.
This past year, Swatch sought to replicate this success by introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Sistem 51 watch. However, while the MoonSwatch took the watch world by storm, the Fifty Fathoms failed to replicate that success.
Morgan Stanley published a report this fall highlighting the significant difference in secondary market prices between the MoonSwatch and the Fifty Fathoms release. Initially, the Fifty Fathoms sold at 126% above retail on the secondary market but has since dropped to 50%. The MoonSwatch, on the other hand, sold at 910% above retail and dropped to 280% a month after its release.
It is no secret the secondary watch market has experienced a decline since the peak of the pandemic when prices skyrocketed. Watch market fatigue has undoubtedly affected the industry. Enthusiasts and collectors may be overwhelmed with options and find it challenging to get excited about new releases. The MoonSwatch’s connection to space exploration injected fresh excitement into the market, setting it apart from the competition. In contrast, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Swatch watch struggled to generate the same level of buzz despite its recognition among collectors.
The underwhelming performance of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms x Swatch, when compared to the MoonSwatch, can likely be attributed to a combination of factors. The overall decline in the luxury watch market, as noted in Morgan Stanley’s report, presents a challenging environment for any new release. Furthermore, the concept of watch market fatigue, in which collectors are inundated with options and may be less excited by traditional releases, may have played a role in the Fifty Fathoms’ initial lackluster reception.
While the MoonSwatch’s association with NASA and its initial scarcity due to overwhelming hype provided a unique appeal, the Fifty Fathoms Swatch Watch, though well-intentioned, may not have offered the same level of innovation and novelty. Being the first to market with the MoonSwatch undoubtedly gave it the upper hand.
I find the cause for disparity between these two watches runs much deeper. The Speedy was a watch that already held its place in pop culture and history outside of the watch community. It’s possibly one of the most iconic watches of all time. When the MoonSwatch was released – this affordable rendition had a built-in clientele that hit the broader public. Omega accounted for 62% of Swatch Groups operating profit last year according to Morgan Stanley and that popularity continued from the original to the homage.
The Fifty Fathoms didn’t generate the same internet-breaking buzz and has quickly become an afterthought. The typical Blancpain collector is not the same person who buys an Omega. If you are buying a Blancpain, you are deep in the watch game and are not a casual consumer of luxury. You must know what you are doing.
Is it possible this homage to the original Fifty Fathoms rubbed collectors the wrong way? Was it okay to make an affordable homage to the Speedy but they crossed the line with the Fifty Fathoms? I believe it also has to do with Blancpain’s ongoing battle to establish itself among the top watch houses. Whether it’s competing with Rolex over who made the first dive watch or challenging Vacheron for the throne as the oldest watch house (Blancpain, founded in 1735, preceded Vacheron Constantin by twenty years, but the former closed its doors in the early 20th century while the latter did not). It has, even after this release, struggled to maintain prominence and popularity.
So what does this release mean?
Maybe I am reading too much into it, but the difference in reception between the MoonSwatch, the initial release of the Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms, and the new Ocean of Storms is so stark it has to be noted. Is this a sign of continued market decline, or is it simply a one-off occurrence, a natural cold shoulder that Blancpain receives from the public, despite its cult-like following among the most devoted collectors?
Only time will reveal how these two collaborations, which brought luxury to the affordable marketplace, will pan out. What remains to be seen is if the Ocean of Storms can resurrect this fledgling series for Swatch. And due to the lines starting to form outside Swatch stores from Milan to New York it seems, this new release will be the one to save the line.
In the ever-evolving landscape of the luxury watch industry, staying ahead of the curve and embracing innovation, while remaining true to what makes them unique may be the key to success for brands like Blancpain and Swatch.